Every human who visits Costa Rica knows that serendipitous moment. As you’re wandering through the lush rainforest on your morning hike, entranced by the tree frogs and leafcutter ants, thoughts of your AI service-company subscription start to fade away. The single-origin Finca Rosa Blanca tastes richer than the house brew at your local Starbucks. The just-picked papaya, sweeter. Life moves more slowly. Then it hits: I could live here.
We’ve traveled a lot in Central America, but this is the only place we wanted to live. Friends think we’re crazy.
For those who do turn that dreamy notion into a reality, it’s not a choice they regret. For Julie Averch and her husband, tired of the desert heat of Scottsdale, Arizona, the choice was to buy an 8,000-square-foot estate in the Central Valley’s La Guacima, a 40-minute drive from the capital San José. Something about searching for greener pastures. Their new backyard faces the Los Reyes Polo Club’s equestrian splendor, fulfilling Averch’s lifelong desire to be around horses. And nearby? Whitewater rafting, hiking trails, coffee plantations, active volcanoes and quiet coastal towns await exploration.
“We’ve traveled a lot in Central America, but this is the only place we wanted to live,” Averch says. “Friends think we’re crazy.”
Yali Alpizar, founder of brokerage Luxury Living Costa Rica, says most of her clients are repeat visitors who fall in love with the country, drawn to its magnetism. “They buy not to make money, but to experience life in Costa Rica,” Alpizar explains. She chuckles as she tells the story of one client who bought a home just to “brag to his friends” back home. Sounds about right.
Does life get greener than this? Of all Central and South American countries, Costa Rica’s commitment to protecting biodiversity stands as an exemplar of governmental law- and policy-making. The nation received the United Nations’ highest accolade, the Champions of the Earth award, in 2019. (Shutterstock)
A richness of beautiful basics
Costa Rica, or “rich coast,” is a standout among its Central American neighbors. The nation’s allure lies in its pura vida (“pure life”) ethos – the unofficial-but-official motto that pervades every element of its culture, food and breezy lifestyle. The local people are warm and welcoming.
Getting here wasn’t an accident. Costa Rica’s journey began with a pivotal 1948 civil war over a contested presidential election. The aftermath created a democratic republic with a new constitution. And a watershed decision: no standing army.
Without military expenses, Costa Rica invested heavily in education, healthcare and conservation. By 2018, education accounted for 31.5% of government spending, the highest among OECD (Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development) countries. The result? A 98% literacy rate, outshining the United States’ rate of 79%. Big tech names like Intel, Microsoft, and Google flock here for the educated workforce and tax perks. The political climate, like the weather, is temperate.
Anti-corruption efforts have also paid off. After high-profile scandals, strict policies brought Costa Rica one of the region’s lowest bribery rates and a top spot in the fight against corruption. An anomaly among some of its Central and South American neighbors.
Hummingbirds, toucans, tapirs, jaguars and this inquisitive white-faced capuchin monkey head the long list of Costa Rica’s colorful exotica. The country is simply bursting with creatures great and small. (Felix Hanspach/Unsplash)
Birds love it, bees love it…
But Costa Rica’s real claim to fame lies in its biodiversity and strict conservation policies. Spanning 51,000 square kilometers (19,700 square miles), this relatively small country is home to nearly 6.5% of the world’s species. Of which: over 230 different mammals, 850 different birds and 12,000 different plant types including 1,400 varieties of orchid.
To protect biodiversity, tight regulations are key. Over 30 national laws protect the natural environment. The country bans gas and oil exploitation. Only 5% of national parks are open to the public. No wonder the United Nations awarded the country with its highest honor, the Champions of the Earth award, in 2019, for its pioneering role in fighting climate change.
For Pablo Gonazales, an Argentinian entrepreneur who lived in Hawaii for two decades, sourcing a new location surrounded by nature and tranquility was paramount. Initially drawn by Costa Rica’s demilitarization, he stayed for the lifestyle.
Every morning, he wakes at 5:30 am. His 2.5-acre farmhouse, just outside San José, is home to his chickens, horses and four dogs that need feeding. He picks green apples, mandarins and the avocados growing rampant in his backyard. Some light woodworking busies his day. “Here, I feel at peace. I have everything I need,” he says.
Macus Benussi, director of business development at Forbes Global Properties, whose family has lived in Costa Rica on and off for several years, sums it up: “Everyone here has a profound respect for nature.”
In Guanacaste Province sits The Road Less Traveled, a tiny 4-seat restaurant on a mission to spread the goodness of native Costa Rican cuisine. Left: Chef Gilberto carefully breaks down a mahi mahi, sourced directly from local fishermen in Playa Potrero. | Right: Ceviche with salsa verde and seashore purslane captures the essence of the ocean, with fresh citrus and herbal notes from the dry tropical forest of Guanacaste. (RLT Cuisine)
A location for lifestyle
Costa Rica is more than the great outdoors. In San José’s Escazú neighborhood, locally dubbed the Beverly Hills of Costa Rica, you can savor fresh ceviche at Pescatore, then take in some live music at Jazz Café. At Avenida Escazú, the day flies by as you shop at upscale boutiques, dine at fusion restaurants and browse familiar American brands.
Further north, Guanacaste’s Gold Coast is all sandy beaches, five-star resorts and plenty of bars where guaro sours are the drink of choice. Farm-to-table dining experiences like The Road Less Traveled provide daily changing tasting menus. Golf enthusiasts can tackle an 18-hole Arnold Palmer Signature Golf Course at the exclusive Peninsula Papagayo Club & Resort, winding through forests, sea cliffs and lava-shaped valleys at tee time.
As for the real estate, most expats and high-net-worth individuals opt for gated communities with ample space for guests. For about US $5 million, you could own a 13-acre property with guest homes, a vineyard, coffee plantation and volcano views. Gardeners, housekeepers and property managers are standard fare.
For about US $5 million, you could own a 13-acre property with guest homes, a vineyard, coffee plantation and volcano views. Gardeners, housekeepers and property managers are standard fare.
But don’t let the glamor fool you. Here, Costa Rican cowboys – sabaneros – still rule. Green iguanas and white-faced capuchin monkeys wait in line while you take out cash from an ATM. Infrastructure can be rustic. Which, for some, is all part of the appeal.
Years ago, realtor Yali Alpizar visited a property in Malpais – a rich enclave home to celebrities like Mel Gibson and Gisele Bündchen – to meet a potential seller. An especially brutal storm meant muddy roads, so a four-wheel drive was needed to access the US $3 million property. When Alpizar asked the seller why he didn’t pave the roads, his reply phrased Costa Rica beautifully. “I’ve driven on highways all my life. This road is my paradise.” Ultimately, he chose not to sell.
Cattle often get a bum steer in the gaseous emissions part of the climate debate. But the emphasis in Costa Rica is on sustainable farming methods. Key to caring for the cows (some 1.6 million of them in 2022) are long days in the saddle for the sabaneros as they go about their daily work. (Alamy)
Main image: They actually live here too – red-eyed tree frogs thrive in Costa Rica’s humid rainforest. (Shutterstock)
